Oil paints are perhaps one of the most versatile mediums to work with. They can be transparent or opaque and the results vary depending on the artist. One benefit I enjoy in using oils is the range of colors and brilliancy they provide. Unlike other mediums, the colors do not change as they dry so what you see is what you get. There are of course various ways in which to use oil paints: Glazing, scumbling, alla prima and under-painting are but a few of the techniques that can be used. Each method creates a different look and over the years I have used several depending on the effect I wish to achieve. This article will highlight some of the basics in getting started.
With oils you may use many materials: cardboard, masonite, illustration board, canvas, linoleum, canvasboard etc. When choosing your material it is important to keep in mind that the application of your paint will vary depending on the surface. Canvas, for example, has more tooth than illustration board and is not as conducive for fine details. Masonite and other wood panels are heavier and better suited for smaller pieces. For larger pieces canvas is preferred since it is lighter but you must insure proper reinforcements for your stretcher bars or your canvas will buckle.
Canvas is one of the more popular choices for oil painting. You can buy preprimed canvas in various sizes at your local art supply store or if you prefer you can stretch your own canvas. When pressed for time or lacking energy (or even when I get a good deal) I will purchase ready-to-paint canvases yet I prefer to stretch my own. The advantage to stretching my own canvas is simple: if I have an idea for a painting in mind I can create a canvas shaped to fit the illustration instead of finding or adjusting an illustration to fit the canvas.
Stretching your own canvas:
Canvas and linen may be purchased in a roll. Each has a different tooth and some in different grades. Ask an employee at your local store to recommend the best for you. I prefer unprimed since it is easier to stretch and easier to keep clean. You will also need to purchase stretcher bars and depending on the size you will be working with you may need some accessories as well (such as crossbraces and t-plates). You will also need a good amount of gesso to prime the canvas once built so don’t leave the store without some. The next stop is to visit your local hardware store and invest in a heavy duty staple gun (don’t forget the staples). NOTE: make sure your staples are NOT too long.
Build your frame with the stretcher bars and set aside as you get your canvas. Make sure that you have enough room to work in that you can unroll the canvas and place the frame on top. (This is the easiest way to measure the correct amount of canvas needed.) Make sure you cut the canvas at least two inches larger than your frame! A little bit larger is not going to hurt things but you don’t want to cut it too short. Roll the remaining canvas back up and store leaving the frame and canvas piece laying flat on the floor. Grab your staple gun.
Pick a side and fold the excess canvas over the top side of the frame. Attach the canvas to the frame by placing three staples about ¼ inch apart beginning in the center and working out. Move to the opposite (bottom) side and pull the canvas tight as you wrap the excessive over the edge. Staple three as before. Now move to one of the sides. Pull tight and again three staples. Repeat on the fourth and final side. Now return to the top side pulling tight and staple a few more working to the corners and moving to the bottom, sides, etc. NOTE: it is imperative that you do not completely attach one side before moving to the next! By working in small sections at a time you are creating a tighter surface which is what you need. If you find your hands are not strong enough to create a tight-as-a-drum stretch then enlist the help of a second person.
Priming: I use your standard everyday gesso to prime my canvas. Make sure that you place an old sheet, paper or plastic beneath your canvas to avoid inadvertent splatters on your flooring. I buy the gesso in a tub which is cheaper and easier to put my 3 inch brush in but you can also buy smaller qualities. When priming your canvas, make sure you start at the center and work your way to the edges evenly (don’t forget the edges). It’s important to keep your brush wet so make certain you have adequate water nearby or your brush will become ruined. Let dry completely and repeat. I usually apply 3 to 4 coats to get a really good surface but 2 good coats are sufficient.
Palettes:
There are many palettes available: wood, plastic, glass, paper pads. I like to use a paper pad. They are cheap and when you have finished your painting you can tear off the top sheet and throw it away.
Colors:
Different artist will recommend different color palettes to get you started. And when starting out sometimes it is easier and cheaper to buy a pre-packaged set. I have listed some of my favorite colors (of course they vary depending on what I am painting and is not a complete listing).
Titanium white, burnt sienna, burnt umber, pthalo blue, cerulean blue, alizarin crimson, cadmium yellow hue, mars black (I prefer it over ivory black), yellow ochre, cadmium red deep, rose madder, Prussian blue, sap green.
Brushes:
Bristle or sables are the most widely used for oil painting. Sable is more expensive so you may want to try out the medium before investing too much money.
Medium:
This varies between artists as well. Mixing a medium with your oil paints changes the drying times and viscosity of the paint. When thinning the paint I often just use mineral spirits or turpentine as my medium but to achieve a higher sheen and when glazing I use a mixture of stand oil, damar varnish and turpentine. Some artists prefer linseed oil, poppy seed oil or other varieties. Try different mixtures to see what results you prefer.
Setting up your work area:
- Make certain your work area is well ventilated! Remember, the vapors can be hazardous to your health if not properly ventilated.
- Use drop cloths, plastic, etc to protect the flooring and walls from splattering.
- Have a container nearby of your medium
- Also have one containing your preferred paint thinner for cleaning your brushes (I use mineral spirits)
- An old t-shirt or cloth for drying your brushes on.
- Wear a smock or old clothes in case of splatters or other mishaps.
These are just the basics in learning to paint in oils. I do recommend studying the techniques of painting by several different artists. If you are not able to afford taking a class at a local art school or community college, try browsing the how-to section at your local library or watch some free online tutorials. Reading and watching is no match for experimentation. Remember, your best lesson is through trial and error. Good luck and happy painting!
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